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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. But, nestled prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.